A while back I was asked to pen a tribute to John Brierley (1948-2023), for the Camino Society Ireland. He was the author of the most significant set of guides to the Camino in the English language (I discussed the maps in them previously) and a key figure in the modern history of the CaminoContinue reading “Remembering John Brierley (1948-2023)”
Tag Archives: Camino Primativo
Sanctified in Stone: the consecration crosses of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
When you walk into the great cathedrals like those of Burgos, León or Compostela, it is easy to focus on the spectacular, like the Chapel of the Constables in Burgos, the stained-glass ensemble of León, and the high altar of Santiago de Compostela. Quite often these are architectural, artistic and spiritual gifts of later eras,Continue reading “Sanctified in Stone: the consecration crosses of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela”
Azabachería, the final façade…
Azabachería, the final façade… it sounds like the opening of a Patrick Steward Star Trek monologue. We might well say ‘boldly going where no peregrino has gone before’, because although this north façade of the cathedral is the first that most peregrinos pass as they finish the francés/primitivo/norte/ingles routes, it’s usually ignored in the rushContinue reading “Azabachería, the final façade…“
Royal Pilgrims
The last time I was in Santiago de Compostela, it was crowded with Germans, most of whom were named Heckler & Koch. I could almost hear Malcolm Tucker from The Thick of It in my head swearing that there were enough goons hovering around to stage a coup d’état. In fact I probably haven’t seenContinue reading “Royal Pilgrims”
Rattle and hum: the towers of the Obradoiro façade
Following on from my last post on the Obradoiro façade, where we looked at the central portion in particular, let’s now take a little closer look at the sides. In fairness, as you face the façade, your eyes are drawn to the centre such that it’s sometimes hard to appreciate the two flanking towers thatContinue reading “Rattle and hum: the towers of the Obradoiro façade”
The front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela – the Obradoiro façade
It’s the one in all the postcards and selfies, and anyone who has walked/cycled that far has almost certainly had their moment immortalized in pixels and probably taken a few photos for others too. Everybody say ‘Quesoooooo’! The western façade of the cathedral was the brainchild of Fernando de Casas Novoa, who began construction inContinue reading “The front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela – the Obradoiro façade”
The Camino and the Spanish Civil War (part 6 – Santiago de Compostela)
At the east end of the cathedral (the ‘back’, so to speak) the square known as Praza da Quintana is divided into two levels, the lower Quintana de Mortos (‘Square of the Dead’) used to be a cemetery until the end of the eighteenth century, and above the steps lies the Quintana de Vivos (‘SquareContinue reading “The Camino and the Spanish Civil War (part 6 – Santiago de Compostela)”
Eucalyptus — a (un)welcome smell on the Camino?
Eucalyptus is one of the smells I associate with the Camino, particularly stretches of the Camino del Norte/Primativo, and while I enjoy the sweetness that fills the air as its thimble-like seed capsules crunch underfoot in the early morning, I can’t help but wish it wasn’t there. Perhaps that’s because one interloper rarely likes another?Continue reading “Eucalyptus — a (un)welcome smell on the Camino?”
Denis Casey 