Santiago’s other feast day — 30th of December

As Christmas rolls around and Camino kids get excited at whether Santa Claus or the Reyes Magos will leave a pair of hiking boots in their stockings, a few might notice that the Christmas period also sees the feast of Santiago/St James.  Some of you will have enjoyed the celebrations of the feast of SantiagoContinue reading “Santiago’s other feast day — 30th of December”

Santiago peregrino (‘the pilgrim’): a saint just like you?

Since literacy levels were low in the middle ages, artists used a variety of iconographic means to communicate to their audiences, not least to help the viewer identify the subject of their works.  Saints, in particular, were recognizable by how they dressed and by items associated with a defining event in their lives or theirContinue reading “Santiago peregrino (‘the pilgrim’): a saint just like you?”

Remembering John Brierley (1948-2023)

A while back I was asked to pen a tribute to John Brierley (1948-2023), for the Camino Society Ireland. He was the author of the most significant set of guides to the Camino in the English language (I discussed the maps in them previously) and a key figure in the modern history of the CaminoContinue reading “Remembering John Brierley (1948-2023)”

What is ‘authentic’ on the Camino?

What is ‘authentic’ on the Camino?  It’s a word that gets bandied about a lot but — having recently looked at the Pórtico de la Gloria app (available to download here) — I want to put a thought out there.  Speaking as a medieval historian, I have no problem saying that the Pórtico is theContinue reading “What is ‘authentic’ on the Camino?”

Sanctified in Stone: the consecration crosses of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

When you walk into the great cathedrals like those of Burgos, León or Compostela, it is easy to focus on the spectacular, like the Chapel of the Constables in Burgos, the stained-glass ensemble of León, and the high altar of Santiago de Compostela. Quite often these are architectural, artistic and spiritual gifts of later eras,Continue reading “Sanctified in Stone: the consecration crosses of the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela”

San Jorge vs Santiago (St George vs St James)

As next Tuesday (23rd April) is St George’s Day (San Jorge), I thought one of Spain’s favourite saints deserved a look in. Naturally, he has some competition. But St George vs St James — no contest, right?  Well, as ever it depends from where you’re looking, especially if you’re on the Camino Aragonés or CaminoContinue reading “San Jorge vs Santiago (St George vs St James)”

The Quintana façade: cover-ups in plain sight

The history of the Quintana façade is that of a cover-up, and I mean that literally, not metaphorically — after all, the historical links between the square and fascism are still openly on display, and that is an issue that many places on the Camino have sought to remove from memory.  Instead, this cover-up isContinue reading “The Quintana façade: cover-ups in plain sight”

Guides and Guidebooks: Good and Bad

The recent passing of John Brierley, the author of some of the most popular and high-quality guidebooks to the Camino, had me thinking about guides and guidebooks.  I was in Santiago de Compostela in June, finishing the Camino Francés that I began in 2021, and had two contrasting guide experiences.  I bought a guidebook inContinue reading “Guides and Guidebooks: Good and Bad”

Royal Pilgrims

The last time I was in Santiago de Compostela, it was crowded with Germans, most of whom were named Heckler & Koch.  I could almost hear Malcolm Tucker from The Thick of It in my head swearing that there were enough goons hovering around to stage a coup d’état.  In fact I probably haven’t seenContinue reading “Royal Pilgrims”

Platerías facade

For many peregrinos, undertaking the Camino and visiting the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela gives them a connection with pilgrims past, and much of their spiritual comfort comes from feeling part of a millennium-long continuum, rather than from visiting apostolic relics.[1]  In this vein, the Platerías facade (Pratarías in Gallego) offers them one of theContinue reading “Platerías facade”