Category Archives: Blog

San Jorge vs Santiago (St George vs St James)

As next Tuesday (23rd April) is St George’s Day (San Jorge), I thought one of Spain’s favourite saints deserved a look in. Naturally, he has some competition. But St George vs St James — no contest, right?  Well, as ever it depends from where you’re looking, especially if you’re on the Camino Aragonés or CaminoContinue reading “San Jorge vs Santiago (St George vs St James)”

The Quintana façade: cover-ups in plain sight

The history of the Quintana façade is that of a cover-up, and I mean that literally, not metaphorically — after all, the historical links between the square and fascism are still openly on display, and that is an issue that many places on the Camino have sought to remove from memory.  Instead, this cover-up isContinue reading “The Quintana façade: cover-ups in plain sight”

Guides and Guidebooks: Good and Bad

The recent passing of John Brierley, the author of some of the most popular and high-quality guidebooks to the Camino, had me thinking about guides and guidebooks.  I was in Santiago de Compostela in June, finishing the Camino Francés that I began in 2021, and had two contrasting guide experiences.  I bought a guidebook inContinue reading “Guides and Guidebooks: Good and Bad”

The Irish-Spanish Inquisition Alliance

In a previous post I wrote about the medieval Spanish inquisition and its relationship with the Camino de Santiago.  The Black Legend of the Inquisition in the early modern period – the horror story version of its activities created in Protestant Netherlands and Britain – still dominates the popular image.  That is not to sayContinue reading “The Irish-Spanish Inquisition Alliance”

The Pilgrim’s Crowbar: Stealing Relics in the Middle Ages

Medieval people went on pilgrimage for many reasons (e.g. seeking forgiveness, gratitude for favours received, as punishment etc.), but you’d be forgiven for thinking that theft would not be a motivating factor.  After all, why would a devout person go on pilgrimage with the express aim of stealing, and especially to steal something holy? ButContinue reading “The Pilgrim’s Crowbar: Stealing Relics in the Middle Ages”

Azabachería, the final façade…

Azabachería, the final façade… it sounds like the opening of a Patrick Steward Star Trek monologue.  We might well say ‘boldly going where no peregrino has gone before’, because although this north façade of the cathedral is the first that most peregrinos pass as they finish the francés/primitivo/norte/ingles routes, it’s usually ignored in the rushContinue reading “Azabachería, the final façade…“

Royal Pilgrims

The last time I was in Santiago de Compostela, it was crowded with Germans, most of whom were named Heckler & Koch.  I could almost hear Malcolm Tucker from The Thick of It in my head swearing that there were enough goons hovering around to stage a coup d’état.  In fact I probably haven’t seenContinue reading “Royal Pilgrims”

Platerías facade

For many peregrinos, undertaking the Camino and visiting the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela gives them a connection with pilgrims past, and much of their spiritual comfort comes from feeling part of a millennium-long continuum, rather than from visiting apostolic relics.[1]  In this vein, the Platerías facade (Pratarías in Gallego) offers them one of theContinue reading “Platerías facade”

Santiago/St James in the Last Supper

Given that it’s Easter weekend I thought Santiago in the art of the Last Supper might make an interesting post.  When we think of artistic representation of the Last Supper, the first painting that comes to mind is undoubtedly Leonardo da Vinci’s fresco in the Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in Milan.[1]  ButContinue reading “Santiago/St James in the Last Supper”