The recent passing of John Brierley, the author of some of the most popular and high-quality guidebooks to the Camino, had me thinking about guides and guidebooks. I was in Santiago de Compostela in June, finishing the Camino Francés that I began in 2021, and had two contrasting guide experiences. I bought a guidebook inContinue reading “Guides and Guidebooks: Good and Bad”
Category Archives: Blog
The Irish-Spanish Inquisition Alliance
In a previous post I wrote about the medieval Spanish inquisition and its relationship with the Camino de Santiago. The Black Legend of the Inquisition in the early modern period – the horror story version of its activities created in Protestant Netherlands and Britain – still dominates the popular image. That is not to sayContinue reading “The Irish-Spanish Inquisition Alliance”
The Pilgrim’s Crowbar: Stealing Relics in the Middle Ages
Medieval people went on pilgrimage for many reasons (e.g. seeking forgiveness, gratitude for favours received, as punishment etc.), but you’d be forgiven for thinking that theft would not be a motivating factor. After all, why would a devout person go on pilgrimage with the express aim of stealing, and especially to steal something holy? ButContinue reading “The Pilgrim’s Crowbar: Stealing Relics in the Middle Ages”
Azabachería, the final façade…
Azabachería, the final façade… it sounds like the opening of a Patrick Steward Star Trek monologue. We might well say ‘boldly going where no peregrino has gone before’, because although this north façade of the cathedral is the first that most peregrinos pass as they finish the francés/primitivo/norte/ingles routes, it’s usually ignored in the rushContinue reading “Azabachería, the final façade…“
Royal Pilgrims
The last time I was in Santiago de Compostela, it was crowded with Germans, most of whom were named Heckler & Koch. I could almost hear Malcolm Tucker from The Thick of It in my head swearing that there were enough goons hovering around to stage a coup d’état. In fact I probably haven’t seenContinue reading “Royal Pilgrims”
Platerías facade
For many peregrinos, undertaking the Camino and visiting the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela gives them a connection with pilgrims past, and much of their spiritual comfort comes from feeling part of a millennium-long continuum, rather than from visiting apostolic relics.[1] In this vein, the Platerías facade (Pratarías in Gallego) offers them one of theContinue reading “Platerías facade”
Santiago/St James in the Last Supper
Given that it’s Easter weekend I thought Santiago in the art of the Last Supper might make an interesting post. When we think of artistic representation of the Last Supper, the first painting that comes to mind is undoubtedly Leonardo da Vinci’s fresco in the Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in Milan.[1] ButContinue reading “Santiago/St James in the Last Supper”
The Cross and the Camino: the Crucifix of Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Apologies to the sculptor and commissioners, but the newly installed crucifix of the cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada in La Rioja (a town I really like and featured previously) – it looks like it was made of Playmobil (a Lego-like product, manufactured in Spain). It did get me thinking about what a crucifixContinue reading “The Cross and the Camino: the Crucifix of Santo Domingo de la Calzada”
Rattle and hum: the towers of the Obradoiro façade
Following on from my last post on the Obradoiro façade, where we looked at the central portion in particular, let’s now take a little closer look at the sides. In fairness, as you face the façade, your eyes are drawn to the centre such that it’s sometimes hard to appreciate the two flanking towers thatContinue reading “Rattle and hum: the towers of the Obradoiro façade”
The front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela – the Obradoiro façade
It’s the one in all the postcards and selfies, and anyone who has walked/cycled that far has almost certainly had their moment immortalized in pixels and probably taken a few photos for others too. Everybody say ‘Quesoooooo’! The western façade of the cathedral was the brainchild of Fernando de Casas Novoa, who began construction inContinue reading “The front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela – the Obradoiro façade”
Denis Casey 