The Codex Calixtinus, which I discussed in the previous post, is the single most important book in the history of the Camino. Within its medieval leaves are the first records of many traditions and legends concerning Santiago/St James, the famous Pilgrim’s Guide, and perhaps the first attempt to compose music for three voices. It was produced for the cathedral in the last quarter of the twelfth century and has remained there ever since. Or rather it did, with the exception of a brief hiatus when it was stolen for twelve months between 2011 and 2012.
A three-part documentary, available on the Spanish national broadcaster RTVE’s website, explores how the robbery occurred, the motivations behind it, and the police investigation that recovered it.[1] The robbery was no Ocean’s Eleven– or Mission Impossible-style caper, rather the book was simply lifted from its case in the archive by Manuel Fernández Castiñeiras, who for 25 years had been working as an electrician in the cathedral. It is suggested in the documentary that Castiñeiras was treated as a self-employed worker and was aggrieved at not being given a permanent contract after many years of service. In response, he robbed the codex in order to embarrass the chapter of the cathedral (its ruling body), and in particular the then dean of the cathedral, D. José María Díaz Fernández. In addition, during the quarter century in which he had unrivalled access to every nook and cranny of the cathedral and its associated buildings, Castiñeiras robbed the cathedral of 2.4 million euros in various currencies, simply helping himself to wads of cash. Much, but not all of it was recovered, and it is believed that up to three quarters of a million is outstanding. As Castiñeiras lived a very modest life, it is not impossible that he did not spend it and that it is hidden somewhere still.[2]
The robbery cast the management of the cathedral in a poor light, both in terms of the security of its prized possessions, and its financial accounting which allowed such vast sums (much of which were pilgrims’ donations) not simply to go missing, but to do so unnoticed. Castiñeiras served time in jail and died in his own home in 2024, having been cared for by his wife, following a stroke some years earlier. The dean, D. José María Díaz Fernández, died in 2025 at the age of 94.
A great deal of the story remains to be told, but the RTVE documentary is well worth watching.
[1] Elena Molina, ‘El robo del codigo’, RTVE (2022). Available (with Spanish and English subtitles) at: https://www.rtve.es/play/videos/el-robo-del-codice/.
[2] Josefa Rodríguez, ‘Muere el autor del robo del siglo en la Catedral de Santiago: ¿Qué misterios se llevó a la tumba?’, Diario de Santiago (16th October 2024): https://www.diariodesantiago.es/santiago/muere-el-autor-del-robo-del-siglo-en-la-catedral-de-santiago-que-misterios-se-llevo-a-la-tumba/.
